Friday, April 10, 2009

Decisions, decisions...

The season here at Big White is very quickly drawing to a close. We have had a couple of days in the last week around +10 which has had us all out in shorts during the day around the village and in just a t-shirt up on the hill. The big upside has been the construction of a number of beer gardens around the village - simple roped off "licenced" areas with a bbq and keg making for really social apres ski hours. It is amazing how quickly the sun changes a place like this. The days are noticeably longer every day and it has a little more bite to it.

Thankfully our base will hold to see us through to April 19 when we all scramble back down the hill and into reality. In some ways at this time of year we want the temperature to either be above +3 or below -3 as anything in between yields very icy, uncomfortable and dangerous conditions on the hill.

Everyone is sharing their plans at the moment for what the Spring and Summer hold for them. For me the decision is a big one. The economic downturn has hit hard and job prospects are slim. My old job back in Perth no longer exists and I am negotiating with them now as to how exactly that works (any advice is appreciated). I can either head home where I know where everything is and try my luck there or stay on here in Canada where I don't know where everything is. Now of course it is always easier to find work back home where you have an established network and a mum that lets you live at her house, eat her food and washes your clothes (any comments about this will be deleted) but I'm here now and it would seem such a waste not to give it a crack.

So now I am living week by week...its exciting, a little scary but mega fun. Next week Amy comes to visit me from Whistler and we will pack up my house together and close the season here at Big White. Next Monday we are hiring a car (the Windstar is gone - that's a whole other story...) and driving back to her place in Whistler, overnighting in either Merritt or Hope (but probably Hope as most roads lead there) by a river, in a tent, with the bears. Before hitting Whistler for one last week of ski bum life. There is a big ski and snowboard festival being held in Whistler that week with international music, arts and ski and snowboard demonstrations amongst some great parties. It will be a fun way to cap off the season.

Then its down to Vancouver and back on the couch at Tim's place. I'll be working hard from the get go in Vancouver trying to land a job and a place to live. I have been doing some long hours on the net so I have fair idea of where I want to live and how much I should pay for it. As for work...obviously a professional placement is the goal to earn real money again and experience working abroad. In the meantime I will dig holes if I have to pay the rent. If it looks like I won't land anything worthwhile then who knows?? I'll probably travel through a few places on my way back home.

I have touched base with some contacts in Vancouver thanks to generosity of friends and family and I will be meeting with them in person to try to find my feet. Despite the bland appearance of this blog I do have hundreds of photos from the season and some cool little video clips of Matt and I riding which I will share with you all...one day. The first thing I am buying when I have a decent wage again is a really good camera.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Whistler Blackcomb

Undoubtedly the best known ski resort in North America is Whistler Blackcomb. The two previously separate, but neighbouring ski areas, of Whistler and Blackcomb were integrated into one enormous operation in 1997 after Intrawest merged with Whistler Mountain Ski Corporation.

Together, Whistler and Blackcomb mountains form the largest ski area in North America at 8,171 acres (33 km2), 54% larger than Vail, the next largest, which has 5,289 acres (21 km2). By comparison Big White has 2,765 acres (11km2) of skiable terrain - so it is fair to say Whistler Blackcomb is quite the destination ski resort.

In addition to their shear size, both mountains have some of the largest lift-serviced vertical skiing in North America (until Revelstoke stole their thunder this year Whistler Blackcomb boasted the largest lift-serviced vertical skiing in Canada). With Vancouver to hold the winter Olympics in 2010 and Whistler to host a large number of the alpine vents I had to go and check it out. So on Thursday morning I loaded the trusty Ford Windstar and headed west.

I must digress from the enormity of Whistler for a moment to talk about the road from here to there. To get to Whistler the shortest route is to drive down the hill to Kelowna, take Highway 97C to Merritt where you take Highway 5 (affectionately known as the Coquihalla Highway) to Hope which turns into Highway 1 and takes you through to Vancouver. Then over the Iron Workers Memorial Bridge and up the Sea to Sky Highway (Highway 99) to Whistler. Seems easy enough - I mean, how hard could it be?

Now the village at Big White sits at 1,700m above sea level and there is currently about two metres of compact snow on the ground. The route described above includes two mountain passes one on Highway 97C on the way to Merritt which touches 1,728m above sea level and the second on the Coquihalla Highway on the way to Hope which is a mere 1,244m above sea level. Both of these passes are West of Big White so put simply, all the weather which brings snow to us here passes of these points first, if we get snow the highway gets it too.

Google maps prepared my journey for Thursday morning at 567km or about 6 hours and 46 minutes of driving time. What google maps didn't account for was the 18cm of snow we received on Wednesday night. Through the course of the season I have watched these roads cause numerous guests to arrive very late here at Big White often as much as a day after they were due as the roads are simply impassable despite the efforts of a dedicated road maintenance team of heavy ploughs and sanding trucks.

Conveniently, the roads are also serviced by a number of web cams which allow you to determine the state of the road from the comfort of home before embarking on the journey. On Thursday morning the DriveBC website advised that both mountain passes were experiencing severe winter conditions and that the highway was not a road at all but more a mix of compact snow and ice.

The web cams painted and even worse picture. On one camera I could not even determine the distinction between the highway and anything else in the frame - it was simply a blanket of white. A little nervous I decided to consult a number of old hands around here as to whether in their experience they would attempt the drive in today's conditions. Of the 5 people surveyed (some of whom boasted over 30 years of driving in BC) none of them would have chosen to drive it on Thursday morning unless it was absolutely necessary and even then only in a strong 4wd vehicle with chains. And definitely not in a $750 front wheel drive mini van. Everyone advised me to take an alternative route to the south and along the lower highways through Penticton to Hope.

So after riding the 18cm of fresh on Thursday morning for an hour or so (come on you didn't expect me to let that go untouched...) I started the trusty van, took a deep breath and headed down the hill. The road to Kelowna was easy enough and I was soon at the turn off to Highway 97C. Here I could choose to go against the wise words of those more experienced and chance the high road or turn south and take the lower roads through Penticton to Hope.

At every point until this intersection I had resolved to adding the extra two and half hours to my journey to take the safer road through Penticton but then in a moment of madness I turned right and immediately started ascending. Is it better to enter the gates of heaven in a burning car wreck backwards or be wheeled in on a hospital trolley as an 85 year old man with a tube up your nose?

Not more than a few kilometres up the hill and around the first significant bend the snow started. The two and at times three lane highway was reduced to two simple tyre marks somewhere near the middle of the lanes that a few lonely cars and trucks before me had cut. Within 10km I had passed a very sturdy and modern looking 4wd slammed sideways into the concrete barrier, its left rear wheel buckled beneath it...to say I was concentrating hard and just a little nervous was an understatement.

To add a degree of difficulty I was alone, mobile phone reception in the area is poor, I only had half a tank of fuel, there was still 84km to Merritt and my windscreen wiper blades were frozen solid and completely useless. My only companions were a few locals and large semi-trailer trucks which overtook me regularly leaving me in a wash of slushy brown snow and completely blind for up to 20 seconds as the frozen rubber tried to do its job - it was horribly frightening.

But the old girl just kept chugging...literally at a crawl I watched the kilometres slide by. The van never missed a beat and when a small white sign on the side of the road indicated the Pennask Summit at 1,728m I beeped the horn like a man possessed, cranked the stereo and celebrated the beginning of the decline. As I descended every kilometre congratulated me with ever increasing road quality till just outside Merritt my tyres again touched solid road. I had passed the impassable in a car no one would have chosen as suitable.

In Merritt I gave the van a good drink, bought a dodgy petrol station roast beef and salad roll and headed for the Coquihalla knowing that at only 1,244m at the summit I was a good chance. The second half was slightly easier and when I reached Hope I telephoned Amy in Whistler to let her know that I was on my way and barring any unforeseen drama I would be there for dinner.

Elated I made it to Vancouver just after 4pm and the last run along Highway 99, despite its heavy roadwork in preparation for Vancouver 2010, was a breeze. I arrived at Whistler village just after 6pm having taken the best part of 9 hours to complete a 6 hour and 46 minute drive.

That night we had dinner with some friends near the base of Blackcomb and took a bus into Whistler Village for a few after dinner drinks. The snow was on my side last week - we had four powder days in a row here at Big White and after we settled in for the night at Whistler it dumped 12cm at the mid-station and a little more on the peak. Friday morning brought blue skies and a powder day at one of the premier ski resorts in the world. Amy has been to Whistler 7 times and with 2 seasons under her belt she knew just the spots to hit with such good conditions. We rode the entire day on Friday and enjoyed the apres ski scene afterwards - double gin and tonics for $5.25.

It's hard to sum up Whistler. It's a fully fledged community complete with everything a decent sized town has including a museum and state of the art library amongst designer shops art galleries and endless bars and restaurants. Even more amusing is the eclectic mix of people. Walking around the village after a day on the slopes are Whistler locals, ski bums, backpackers, working holidayers, children, families and the rich and famous all dressed in everything from office wear, ski gear, jeans and jackets to designer dresses with heels and clutched in their hands are everything from skis and boards to fistfuls of bags from the endless shops. Some people are there for the skiing and riding, others for a pampered five star holiday and some just to say they are at Whistler.

On Saturday Tim, of North Vancouver fame, joined us for the day on the hill. We rode all day Saturday till the apres ski scene then cooked a nice meal at home before resting for the drive back on Sunday.

Apart from the amazing snow we received and the endless people watching in the village the terrain at Whistler is world class and the recently opened Peak 2 Peak Gondola lets you travel between the two ski hills in 11 minutes. This amazing engineering achievement lets you travel the 4.4km between the two mid points of the ski hills in a comfortable 28 person gondola swinging at its highest point 436m above the ground. Making it even more amazing the construction only has four lift towers meaning the span between with second and third towers is over 3km!!!

I do wish I had some photos from Whistler...I did take my camera with me but neglected to take a memory stick - sorry!! Luckily I am going back there on April 21 for another week of skiing so I will take some pictures for you all then including the Peak 2 Peak Gondola.

The drive back was uneventful but beautiful as the weather had cleared and the mountain passes were amazing.

For now though its Spring skiing here at Big White. Riding around in a t-shirt all day on sloppy snow.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Spring

Spring has definitely sprung around the Okanagan - the town of Kelowna has had temperatures as high as 10 degrees Celsius this week and almost all the snow in town has melted. A large urban area is pretty ugly when it snows. Sure the rooftops are white but everything else at ground level turns a horrible shade of brown, a mixture of slushy snow and sand placed by the council to make the roads and paths safe.


Up here on the hill its a totally different story. As I eluded to below it might have come a little late this season but it's still coming. Last week we enjoyed consistent 2-6cm snowfalls every few days and whilst this pattern does not produce the mind-blowing days of early January when we would score 20+cm overnight and not see our knees for the entire next day it does make for wonderful spring skiing and riding.


The temp was hovering between 0 and 5 below - perfect weather for getting out on the hill. No need for a mid layer, just your snow pants, a thermal top and the shell of your jacket. Everyone is making the most of every day that we get a little fresh snow knowing that as each day ticks by we head closer to the closing date of April 19 and more importantly you never know at this time of year when the last snow will fall. Last year the resort recorded 40cm over the last two days so there is still life in the old girl yet - we hope!!


Today the pattern broke a little and it is definitely Spring up here now. +5 as I type this and everyone is starting to develop quite healthy goggle tans. Matt and I are egging each other on to see who can look like the greatest ski bum.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Vancouver or bust...

Pablo needs a job in Vancouver...if you know anyone who knows anyone about anything that I might want...let me know!

Other than that the snow continues to fall. We have had a week of morning sunshine, followed by afternoon and evening snowstorms making for some of the best conditions of the season.

The steeper parts of the mountain are really starting to shine with the base now nudging 200cm. I turned an otherwise bad news day very good on Monday by dropping one of the most challenging chutes on the cliff face - solo!!

Sometimes it takes bad news for you to realise that you should make the most of what you have and that if you never push yourself you'll go home regretting having never done it. Dropping out of the chute and into the bowl for some of the best lines of the season has definitely been one of the highlight mornings of the winter.

I'm heading back there today as we have had another nice dusting in the last 24 hours and the cliff was closed yesterday due to high winds and visibility issues - YEWWW!!!!!

Monday, March 9, 2009

The Ford Windstar

Thanks for the comments everyone - its is good the be back. Despite the often long times between posts I do very much enjoy writing them and reading your comments. Everyone has asked for photos of the car...who takes photos of their car??

It's been over cast here for days so I could not take a nice photo of it in the sun so I dug out these photos from our trip to Silver Star (full report to follow). It was about -10 in the car park when I made the boys stand around for the photo. So cold when I got in the car my fingers were frozen solid and I could not even manage the button on my trousers.

Here it is..obscured by others.







Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Red Mountain...and a little more

Over the past few weeks (whilst I have not been writing) I have had some of my more memorable moments of the trip. Back in December I took a half share in trusty motor vehicle. A $750, 1995 (or is it 1997 I can't remember) Ford Windstar...think Toyota Tarago...little less refined...a lot more American.


It has 7 seats, a V6 engine, electric windows (one of which doesn't work - yep that's right the driver's window), cruise control, air conditioning, an AM/FM tape deck stereo and a mere 280,000km on the clock...one lady owner drove it the shops and back on weekends only - yeah right.


Of course the even funnier story is that when Pup went to buy it he was heading out to buy another van; but he got lost, stopped at a car yard for directions and well...the rest is history.


It has enormous buttons and switches in it, handles like a sponge cake and needs about 500m to come to a complete stop from any speed. But is is in pretty good nick mechanically and we love it!! And now that we have all saved a few dollars and the winter is drawing to a close we are taking it out on the road at any opportunity to visit the surrounding mountains.


From Big White there are a number of excellent ski hills between 2 and 5 hours away - weather permitting. In the past few weeks I have visited Revelstoke (photos to follow), Red Mountain and Big White's sister resort Silver Star (photos to follow) - which at only 2 hours away is a good option on the mornings they get fresh snow and we don't.


Making the trips even more affordable is that almost all the mountains in the interior of BC have a reciprocal arrangement for staff where the staff of each mountain are entitled, on average, to 2 free day passes and 4 additional day passes discounted by 50%. At Silver Star we ride for free all season so its just the cost of petrol.


A fortnight ago Tim, of North Vancouver fame, was heading to the interior with some mates of his for a 10 day tour of the local hills around Big White. I took a Friday night off work and joined him for the last three days of the trip which included Red Mountain and Big White. The 4 hour trip to Red took me pretty much due South to the US Border which I followed East for an hour or so before turning back to the North and up to Red. To break the ride up I stopped in Grand Forks for some chowder and picked a hitch hiker up for the 20km from Grand Forks to Christina Lake...nice guy (the hitchhiker that is).


Red is one of the oldest ski hills in North America with a history dating back almost to 1900. The ski area is actually made up of Red and Granite mountains which meet in a valley. Despite the name most of the ski-able terrain is actually on Granite. Granite is quite unique in that is a conical shaped ski hill ride-able on all sides - imagine if you asked a 5 year old boy to draw a mountain - they just drew Granite.


Red is famous for its steep terrain, excellent tree runs and extremely slow and ancient lift system. From the day lodge its a 28 minute trip to the top of Granite on two lifts...none of the chairs are detachable and you take your life in your hands boarding them. It's one mountain where the lifties actually posses an important skill set, swinging the chair just before you board to make the take-off bearable.


We got to Red a few days after a good dump and being a quieter hill there was still some good snow to be found in the trees. We rode in-bounds all day Friday and sampled most of the good areas on the hill. We even nipped up Red Mountain for one run just to tick that box.


We were kindly put up by some friends of Tim's in their beautiful ski-to/ski-from apartment and on Saturday they joined us on the hill. Knowing the area well and with little fresh snow in-bounds they took us past the ski-area boundary to hike the next ridge line (Record Ridge) for an unforgettable day of heavy hiking, fresh lines and deep powder. The long hike up was well worth it - so much so after lunch we did it all again.


The morning sun on the snow of Record Ridge


Part way up the ridge - looking back towards Granite Mountain.

Tree


Looking back over Granite Mountain from the top of Record Ridge


Looking away from Granite Mountain from the top of record ridge


Heading back down the side of Record Ridge back towards Granite


Bottom of Powder Fields - Granite Mountain


Coming down off Record Ridge after lunch

Tony coming down off Record Ridge


I can`t remember where this is might have been the bottom of Beer Belly on the Friday...

After two great days of riding we set off back to Big White with Tim and I in my trusty van and the others in a nice new Landcruiser. Fair to say despite us leaving well ahead of the other and that they had to stop for fuel it was not us waiting at the top of Big White for them. It turns out the headlights on the old girl are not what they used to be. We got home eventually.
The next day we broke things up with a spot of skiing at Big White as the snow was average. I have posted the photos below to prove that I have actually learnt how to stand on my skis. The guys that taught me to ski are making their way home tomorrow morning. They leave on a month long trip through the states in a 1994 Ford Explorer that they picked up at the auctions in Kelowna for $1,000...great old car - all the best fellas.



Yeah yeah yeah...

...I know...I'm useless at this thing. I do appreciate the comments of Fairlie and Wil El-dropper in keeping me honest.

Fairlie - good detective work there is somebody else...taking the photos that is.

In fact in completely abandoning this thing for a few weeks I actually gained a follower - says a lot really.